"That cannot be true." I had to ltake a closer look at the scenery to completely understand what I was confronted with. I checked my water and started to climb. Just a moment ago I was cycling on a great road with lots of nature to entertain me, I had to take a hard left on the road to Cartí. Since an half an hour I was a bit worrying if I will find it but now I partly wished I didn't. Immediately after the turn a straight steep climb begins. It looks like the road into heaven but after twenty meters it became crystal clear that it is actually hell. The sun was the last jigsaw. For the first time I had to stop a few times and I even pushed my bike a few meters. I could not believe that the regional government allowed this construction but I guess Panama intends to spend its money somewhere else then to a serpentine climb. These first minutes gave me a good impression on what will follow. I knew about a mountain range between me and the San Blas Islands but I assumed a attraction like this will imply better infrastructure. I guess Panamanian car drivers do not care and tourist are not seen on this road that often on their own. Anyway, it lead to crazy steep ascents. Straight uphill. Thirtyeight kilometer of up and down should follow and my breaks were already worn out. After I almost crashed as the descent ended in roadwork but my tires couldn't stop me, I decided to except the offer of a local to have me a lift for the last five kilometers after I almost was not allowed to enter the National Park because it was already late. Panama confronted me with three of the most challenging days while my trip. Not bad for a “Panama is flat and easy” impression I got from previous talks.

Advise for cyclists:

Take water with you! This will be a challenging day. After twenty kilometer you have to stopp for an entrance fee. The Kuna Yala district is beautiful with it’s amazing islands, natural diversity and interesting indigenous. But paying $10 entrance in a nation you can sleep two days in a hotel for the same amount? At least they just charge cars extra. My bike could pass. There is another military control and is obligated to show the passport. Do not carry drugs, I saw dogs.

"Come on!" A funny guy in a canoe was waving at me, he was pretty amused to see my overloaded bicycle. I have chosen the main island close to the shore in hope to get a boat at ‘Cartí Subdub‘, a quay for supplies and further transportation. He laughed all the time as we tried to get my bike on the narrow canoe.

"It is just the both of us?"

"Yes, most tourists go to see the nice islands."

I was wondering was I was up to but as soon as we approached Cartí, I knew what he meant. There are hundreds of paradises on the Atlantic Coast of Panama, called San Blas Islands. Some are not bigger then a car and others offer camping, bars and pure beach life. The water cannot be cleaner, the sand not more white and fine. I have chosen one of four islands where the people of the Kuna Yala tribe live. Every meter is used. The first persons I met were kids who jumped around my bike, touching my things in astonishment. A very fat child guided me to the quay, I really wondered how he could have an interest in my bike, sport is obviously not one of his priorities on the daily schedule but I guess it was more about the "big boss syndrome", guiding the stranger in front of the others. I pitched my tent after I found out about a captain who might be on the island. By now I know this game and prepared myself for a complicated talk. Who, when, how and how much are the costs. To get those information in a good quality is a challenge. I had no other choice and enjoyed to be on an island with a interesting mix of indigenous tradition and modern comfort. As I walked around I recognized familiar noises. In a house made of palm trees stand a TV station. In front of it two naked boys played Nintendo Mario Brothers. I joined in, what a chance. The villagers accepted me on the island. The quay is the prime place to chat, trade and get drunk in the night. My tent stood right in the middle of it, occupying at least a fourth of the space. I continued to explore more about their life with respectful steps, I knew I don't fit into this environment but I tried to be as less annoying as possible.

Finally I talked to a captain. To negotiate the price became a intense feeling, to fail would left me behind in big trouble. We started with $100 for me and my bike is another person, even more than that. I would be lucky to pay just $200. I did not play, he saw that I really have no money with me and accepted to bring both, me and the bicycle for $60. If everything is capable, my $50 will be enough for the following boats. I had the information about an estimated price to pass the border and a fixed ferry price from Capurganá to Turbo. Surprises not included. I still could not be sure if he really accepted. A mixture of coolness, being pissed about the price and normal Latin habit. I will see if there is a boat on the next morning. Most of the day I just sat on that peer and watched people, relaxed by the smooth movement of the ocean. Three little populated islands presented nice scenery for me to be lazy and watch the local life. I became a part of the local daily life. It wasn’t ignorance I witnessed, I felt acceptance of my presence. It becomes more astonishing if I tell you more about the locals. As I entered the Kuna Yala district with it’s untouched flora and fauna, I also entered a region with the most impressive indigenous of my travel, yet.

Diary quote:

"The oldest member astonished me in their proud, their elegant habit and rural appearance. The clothes are full of character and present the tribe as well as personal favors. All women wear the same order of clothing but in a different and unique style. The leg ornaments are equal as good as the headscarf but the rest of the clothing is designed in personal adornment, set with a specific appearance. Some skirts were decorated with tribal, others with animals. One thing the women have in common is the golden nose ring. Both nostrils are stuffed with a gold. Some women have nose tattoos. Their appearance emits pure dignity. The men are less traditional. Most young people were normal clothes, had a cell phone and talked Spanish. The eldest wear white shirts and long grey trousers. Their hands are marked by hard work. To be surrounded by them without the feeling of being unwelcomed, was a great experience. Modern life desencouraged lots of the youth to live a life in old traditions. Television, cellular and Coca-Cola founded in the daily life on these islands, they live close to the developed world. These islands and their inhabitants are not totally isolated from the regular life in Panama, still it becomes the breeding ground for genetic defects. The bioturbation is hard to achieve. But it is the reason for my special highlight: Since an hour I played with a little girl who rather spend her time with me than with her overstrained mother. Her finger pointed to the horizon, "They are funny." Soon, I saw them, too. A canoe, not different to others, but with special inmates, struggled to get to my peer, not a good sign if you go already with the flow of the ocean. They act so funny. Obviously the both were sisters, evidently a good example why you should marry outside your own family. It is not nice but the obvious appearance let no doubts. Everyone in this village knows them and a mixture of laughing and real friendship encountered the peer. But they arrived, I helped them out of the canoe. One was loudly arguing and gesticulating. As they came back the actual hilarious funny drama began. Their boat sunk 20 meters away from us. Everybody saw that coming. Nobody helped so I continued with the repair of my bicycle gloves, ready to jump into the ocean if the situation develops to more seriousness. It was to enthralling and amusing to see them while they angrily shouting for help while they hold the flipped over canoe. They cannot swim. Actually that was one of their shouts. I began to wonder how many people would be able to help them. Although the Kuna Yala indigenous in this region live their whole life on an island, it did not look like everybody could actually help them. It took them twenty minutes or more until they arrived at the peer. In the meanwhile the area was packed with people. The two sisters found nobody to bring them to their island, they shouted energetically at all boats which passed by but none of them stopped. They tried again by going in the wrong direction because of bad driving skills and the stream. They shouted at us to help, still a mixture of being affraid and having fun. The never got insulting, their shouts was how they communicate. The wrong direction made them nervous enough to overbalance again. What a show. A local jumped in the water to help pushing the canoe back to the peer. One of the sisters tried a third time. It took her approx. 1,5 hours to go back in zig-zag-pattern. The other shouted to friends or strangers, something in indigenous language. It sound pretty impressing."

Diary quote:

“After leaving Chepo without more money than I entered it, I rode direction Cartí. The road welcomes you with a crazy steep climb. My lungs screamed. Thirtyeight kilometer of more or less hard climbing followed. One of my brakes collapsed and broke. I camped at the peer of the island in Cartí, after playing basketball with some young guys and I was very astonished of the clothes, tattoos and nose piercings of the Indigenous women. In the morning I got a speed lancia. We hold two times on the hundreds of breathtaking islands of San Blas. What a life on those islands. Palm trees and the clearest water, total relaxation. We continued towards the birder and the waves became bigger. My body still hurts. It was an incredible ride. I sat in the front row to have an eye on my bicycle and bags. The lancia jumped over the waves and every landing hurt my spine. Wow, wow we flew over the water, wave by wave! At the border I could find another boat to Columbia. My bike lost a part of the wheel quick-release and my saddle looks damaged, the leather is harmed and my fender is damaged. Salt and intense sun barbequed my skin, what hurts even more under the influence of the salt water. What a time! Tomorrow I hope my money is enough to reach a city with ATM.”

As you can see, the next morning on the island brought luck. At the late evening the quay became a bar for fishermen while I enjoyed the sunset and the amazing view from my tent door. The next morning I searched the captains and it was true, he was captain of a ten meter long lancia with two V6 engines. I wasn’t the only one taking this boat. But the only who pay less. My bike was trapped in the front of the boat. The whole construction did not look fast or appropriate to ride along the coast of Panama. The engines boosted it over the waves. In the beginning the water was quiet, I had the best place and was happy as a clown as I saw us taking direction to one of the beautiful San Blas Islands. Even before the boat reached the shore I jumped over its sealing and into the clear water. What a feeling to swim next to these palm trees. Another island and another opportunity to swim occured. Of course I enjoyed every second of our stays. As we left the environment changed, this became the turning point of the journey in terms of comfort and relaxation. As we left the shallow water the waves gave the trip another appearance. It became two times worse with the suddenly incipient heavy rain. We jumped high. My body rebelled from the lasting up and down, especially with every landing. Now I regret to sit that far in the front. At least my bike was well attached. Saltwater and sun burned my skin. We did arrive at the border village of Panama. Somewhere in nowhere. The military searched every pocket and touched every item. It is a duty to give the personal two copies of your passport but they don’t have a plotter. You have to go in a grocery where they apparently have, now you I was able to get the stamp, it is a circus.

The act to get a boat to Columbia was easy because I traveled in a group which had the same destination. After one Panamanian member bribed some people for getting the stamp we could go. This time my bike wasn't attached well and it jumped with me, although I tried my best to hold it down. The forces were to strong.

Capurganá became a surprise. This city has not even a road connection with Columbians infrastructure but I saw a prosperous life, wealthy people walked through the nice streets and spend their time in restaurants. I guess you can figure out what they export. I got a room and enjoyed my first day in South America, finally I had arrived. The time I spend under the shower was more than necessary. My skin screamed out loud to get cleaned from salt. The next morning became furious. I had to spend all my money and asked some other passengers for another missing dollar to get my bike on that ferry to Turbo. What a narrow-minded captain, a soulless salesman but after a stressful hour I sat on my seat and hoped the rest of Columbia will be more hospitable. The ride over sweat water in the bay of Turbo became the most relaxing boat trip of the last two days. I arrived in a city from where I could cycle on my own, no dependence to others. I was so lucky to be out of this limbos. And I was without a cent in my wallet.

Quote Sebastiao Salgado:

“We destroy too much and give too much to the modern part of our society. If we want to continue to live here we must restore order to what we have destroyed. Everything is alive on our planet. We must integrate again with our planet, or one day our planet will push us out completely, and we will disappear as a species. We are breaking this essential link that we have with nature. We are nature, but if we come back a little bit to nature we can be integrated with the planet I am sure”

$0 – Kula Yala Park (normally 10 $ (not negotiable) but a Columbian tourist liked that I will visit his nation with my bicycle, he invited me for the entrance fee)
$5 – Boat to Cartí (not negotiable)
$60 – Boat to Puerto Obaldia (absolutely negotiable) But: No official traffic. Take what’s there or wait for another option. Cargo ships are the cheapest option but might take weeks to cross.
$12 – Boat to pass the border to Capurganá, Colombia (negotiate in Carti or find other tourists in Puerto Obaldia)
$30 - Boat to Turbo (not negotiable)
$22 - Boat for my bike to Turbo (absolutely not a fixed price)