Immediately after leaving the Costa Rican immigration the visitor gets a nice first impression of the nation Panama and its different economy and habits. Their immigration just got a new paint. An half-talented was hired to paint national flag on the wall. The is a complicated mix out of plants and animals. Furthermore all text was squint-eyed. People are more relaxed and everything needs a bit more time. I remembered how I asked a policeman for to define the local currency.

"The gringos bought our nation so we can use their bills."

I did not expect to pay in dollar again but it’s easier to handle than the other currencies and their complicated conversion. I feel like being part of the movie "Groundhog day". Again I have to tell you about those weird border crossing days. This time the immediate change of nature impressed me.

 

Diary quote:

 

“These days are so crazy, it’s hard to explain my feelings and the diversity of events while I cycle through Latin America. Days are packed, full of different highlights. Some when today I broke the 6000km. I don’t know the exactly time when it happened because a dog bit my cable into two pieces. Now I am without knowledge how far I go each day. This will be the beginning of long distance days. I am in Santiago, Panama. I shouldn’t be here. The ride to David, the first big city after the border, became a weird one. Costa Rica turned out to be gorgeous after the troubles in the north of that nation. The same happened in Panama. It’s absolutely breathtaking to the immediate difference of fauna and flora which appears just after such a border crossing in Central America. Until the city David it became a boring ride. The astonishing jungle of Costa Rica disappeared. Instead of nice curves like at the coast of Costa Rica I suddenly spend my hours of pedaling on an huge highway. It's never ending straightness sucked me in. It's appearance reminded me of the old Russian Empire for a first part of the day but soon it was midday and I had to stop. The Daily rain clouds appeared. The rain season began, so what shall I do? I stop cycling in a hurry and search for shelter. On the one hand my equipment is not waterproofed and I dislike having everything wet. On the other hand I know that it won't last long. The temperature drops down but soon I found a good way to entertain myself by playing guitar while rain shatters on the tarmac. Two days ago a Tica joined me and sung a song."

 

To arrive in David is no fun. There is no shoulder; I had to cycle through puddles and in lots of traffic. This day the overcast did not go away and I got soaked with water a few times. My interest to stay in this city was low and I decided to go ahead until sunset and was welcomed at a place of a most likable old couple. All these nice people on my trip became the cherry on the ice-cream. They were hilariously funny and hospitable. After we cleaned the pig-cot and had a strong tee, we talked until dusk. They ask me if I want to pitch my tent inside their kitchen which obviously was the main room in the turbulent constructed house. I apologized and thanked for the invitation with telling a story of how much I love to see the sky and it's stars. I would prefer to pitch it outside. The truth was, I did not to sleep on the muddy ground full of guano, chickens picking my tent, digs and cats have a piss on it, too. In the morning we cooked pea soup and corn tortillas, in underwear. We laugh hilariously again as the man of the house joined us by having the same strange clothing. All at 5 AM.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Diary quote:

 

"The street became super nice. On an aloe vera field I could fire a gun in a scarecrow. The guys stopped me to chat, put some aloe vera on my nose and wished best luck. My nose must look terrifying by now if strangers have sorry with me. But before I left they asked me if I would like to shoot the scarecrow. Sure. Panamas people are genial. I hope that wont change until I get a boat to Colombia. One exception: Chinese immigrants. They own almost every super-mini. No Spanish, no joy and they are by now totally unfriendly and give hateful comments. After wondering the first times it happens, I walked away at the next shop, put the products on the table and left without buying something. I got my my juice at the next door, more expensive but the liquid tasted better with the avoidance of these unhappy people. The thunder strikes were enormous, pouring rain every day. It pains on my skin. Forty minutes, as normal. I had to wait like usual. The rain is just a little cameo on an otherwise hot summer day. The valley looked gorgeous. Fog all over. The highlight today was the area around Bella Vista. A long descent brought me through a gorgeous area with touching views. It made my eyes tearing. Everywhere I looked around my eyes catches a quick view on interesting species. Somebody who tells you Panama is flat, lies. Beside the Panamerican Highway lead a lot of roads to the mountainous coast. Unfortunately the infrastructure is mostly consisting on one-ways and in respects of the beginning rainy season I did not like the imagination to go back and fourth or to go on dirt roads or even worse. Even the Panamerican Highway was suddenly hilly and it challenged me to arrive in Santiago. The street became worse. Forty kilometer with the feeling to tumble and crash due to holes and cuts."

 

Diary quote:

 

"I almost crashed with 65km/h. A truck turned backwards on the road as I just finished a descent. From my higher position I could see his careless moving backwards. The road was wet due to the daily rains and I rode with precaution. The combination of bad brakes, a bad street and bad weather let my cycle slower than usual because I already was alarmed and a bit frightened. This reduced speed was more than necessary because my bike stopped just 10 meter in front of the truck. He will never hear so much aggressive German language again in his life. The rivers are flooded now. The nature is already changing. It hurts to see a dam-construction in the nicest valley of Panama, yet. Food is cheap and good and I pay in dollar again. I just recognized that my luggage is in order and color of the German flag. Santiago is really ugly and you won't imagine how dirty my hotel room actually is. The day was long, longer then I thought. Niseemas birthday, I did not know about the hilly section and my struggling was tremendous. I never would sleep here, the bed is dirty, the walls are dirty, the bathroom is super dirty and price is enormous. I sleep in my sleeping bag. I have no energy left and will sleep soon. All I wanted is to get access to the internet to write with Niseema, but she is not there. I hope my skin does not touch the sheets."

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After I spend plenty of time in the rain, I looked at the map of Panama and decided to follow my strict plan to cross without much sightseeing or detours. I spend to much time in Nicaragua to explore without the daily fight against wet clothes. I continued my fast ridings. One highway is the spine of the nation. Every other region is complicated to visit on a bike because you almost always have to cycle back the same road you came. I had no interest in this and closed my ears while talks about special locations nor did I ask for sights. My only longing was to get information about the boats to cross the border to Colombia. Why? The simple answer is the 'The Darién Gap".

 

The Panamerican Highway is not really a extreme long road on two continents, it’s divided between the Darién Province in Panama and the northern district of Colombia. This predominantly swampland in between is one of the most unexplored regions in the world. Still there is life and traffic. Indigenous can live in distant to the modern society, poising animals and drug dealers make it even harder to cross the swampland. The rest of the humanity has to find another way to set their feet on the other continent. Several attempts to build a road failed. Some opinions seeing this as a good circumstance. Due to this natural barrier it was not possible for diseases to spread out over the opposing continent and the indigenous life would be strongly influenced by a road, as well.