Mai 2012, I left Europe to see the world. What began as an around-the-world-in-one-year idea switched to an open case and by now it took me exactly 1year to see every nation on the landmass of North America. While sitting in a cafeteria in Gapurganá after these eventful days to cross the border (Link) I thought about the last two years and in particular about my time in North America. It made me happy. All these memories. The people I met, the nature, the unexpected events; it was a cure for my soul and I am happy. I am really happy to packed my things in a little backpack. A huge change was to go by bicycle. After that many days walking through the streets, hiking and road trips. It’s a different world. To sum it up, I felt peace overcoming me throughout the months. Beyond it made me stronger. I learned a lot about myself, learned even more by enjoying others on my way.

 

Quote from my diary:

“The smoothie filled my stomach and my smile expands by looking forward into my future. I don’t know what’s coming next. If I really cycle to Ushuaia, the end of South America. If I go to Mexico City, return to Germany. Or will I do something else? The continental border seems to be somehow a mental checkpoint. Let’s see what will happen.”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Turbos ATMs won’t accept my credit card! Really? I tried a third time, the last bank in town. Et voila, mucha plata. While I happily danced in front of the bank, a military girl got an interest in me. In the end she rode her motorcycle next to my bike to show me the way out of the city. The source of her friendliness was not just helping but at least my bad opinion about Colombians in general, which appeared throughout the border experiences, began to change. Even better, people began to make me presents. They waved and showed their thumbs. Anyway, I felt a decision on the last boat trip to Turbo: I won’t cycle to the northern coast with all it’s attractions. My bad experiences made me want to rush through, despite a lot of friends told me how beautiful the north is. Furthermore it’s just connected with dirt roads. A fundamental reason is that I won’t cycle south. I really need to cycle south. From the Baja California until now I literary crossed the whole USA in cycling constantly south-east. Now it’s time to reach the equator!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My following days were short distance ones. Arriving in Turbo at midday was the first reason. The University Antioquai for agriculture looked interesting and I ended my day early by sitting together with students. Not ordinary ones, indios. Their parents live in the woods up north-west and 12 persons got the chance to study. The week of presents continued. Three different kind of mangos and a fruit called Poma Rosa ‘perla de aqua’. It grows on a tree with purple blossoms and taste like a combination of apple and rose! I tasted it without knowing its name. It really taste like roses, delicious. The professor gave me 30 $ and best wishes for my trip. Soda, a huge piece of sugar-something (I shall use it with lemon and water) and some cookies followed.

 

Lots of talks at the university in the morning and a rain-soccer break of two hours minimized my distance. Watching German teams in the Champions League against the top two teams of Spain became fun in a spanish soccer fanatic region. My next day started late but with an ape. A 10cm small monkey on the shoulder of a soldier who protected a bridge with tanks. The road I had chosen was the main drug road four years ago. Guerrillas fought hard. I saw actual news about the fights right now. Heavy ammunition is used! Just a few minutes after I said goodbye to the monkey I hesitated to the next restaurant with a TV to watch soccer, suddenly I saw a lollipop hold out of the window. A short smalltalk later I had the lollipop and an address in Medellin. I told them my bike needs repairs and somehow they are cyclists, too. I will meet them and see what happens. There was no restaurant. Kind of shocked I asked a man there the next television is located, he pointed in his living room/ kitchen/ bathroom, kicked out his children, switched the channel and made me a ‘Tinto‘, a cafe with sugar and milk. Everyday-rain hit me not that hard this time. The main flush happened while I flushed the toilet with a hug bowl. The cafe did a good job and the living room/ kitchen/ bathroom situation was a nice event for us all. Latin families live together. I remember 9 persons being witnesses of what the coffee forced my body. After all the rain and the past few weeks I was wet and tired enough to choose a hotel, the first since Santiago in Panama and it was the cleanest since… I can’t remember. Colombia is a well structured nation with all the comfort you know from a 1st world nation if you only rate the city life. Dreaming of the shooting of two soldiers just a few hundred meters in front of me did not interrupt my deep sleep. They shoot at the car and I saw that they did not kill him. Why? I couldn’t see from my hill. They have not stopped me and I just passed by. My bed was so nice! I slept till 9am! Another short day followed, but one of the most furious. To wake up so late is not a normal precision anymore. I enjoyed it but I had known well, the rain will come soon. Sooner then I want.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The climbing began. 11km to warm up. The nature was fantastic and the street good, almost empty. It was one of these days you like most on the bicycle. Offside the highways in the most astonishing nature. The heavy rain started to fall. But even before I bicycled slowly and enjoyed to be in this jungle. Rivers all over. Waterfalls surrounded me. Landslides destroyed the road. With the rain the scenery became absurdly beautiful. There were parts with constantly appearing waterfalls. Every 10 meters. Little springs, whole walls dropped water on the road. I saw every kind of waterfall I can imagine. The road modified to sand and stones which now became an even harder challenge with all that rain swamp the scenery. Next to me followed the huge river Rio Sucio where the clean water mixes into a brown soup. It was breathtaking. I could not be happier in all this rain. Just before I found a place to sleep I had to pass a tunnel. More a hole. Without inner construction the water came through the rock nearly no lights. A curve hided the view to see the exit. Hilarious. I found my bed in the backyard of a house shared by a family and the military. I slept safe. The next day became a hilly one. In sunshine I cycled up the mountains on a nice road. Everything was so friendly. The nature welcomed me to bicycle.

 

My first stop became a kindergarten. I arrived in indigenous ruled territory. The road became rough, mostly just sand and stones. Sitting in these communities became a highlight since I could enjoy the Quiche-Mayan in Guatemala. But a big difference appeared. In Guatemala I was almost always a stranger. They reacted totally friendly on me but the body language was uncommunicative, I was too much of a stranger on my bike. These kids in Colombia are open to talk to me, to touch me. But often they are even less free from capitalism an its influences. Anyway, I am in indio-land again and I marvel. Cycling on the plateau, the purity of nature.

 

 

Quote from my diary:

“The older children playing naked in puddle of mud. The mother, her appearance is full of strength, holds a baby at her breast. She stands in the kitchen with a few of her extended family members nearby in her small wooden house which is not more than a rain protection and a symbol of home. She prepares the food, her hands won’t feel the fire like mine do. One older men chops wood witch a machete while he is watching the three cows walking to the river. A wooden pipe brings the water direct to the property. It falls continuously on the ground. Four other men sit on a table made of plastic boxes. They play cards to beat the boredom. The kids in the puddle wave to me. Their naked body shines in the sunlight. The youngest runs to her mother as she sees me. Hiding behind her leg she does not know how to categorize me. Seeing her brother waving back to me changes her mind. Her dark eyes ask her mother what to do. Nearly falling she runs to her brother to hide behind him. She waves at me, looks back to her mama and laughs. I cycle over the little hill. Another house appears a few hundred meter further. The life has remained simple from the outside world, protected from the wealth of capitalism, ironically by a cocaine drug-road history which influenced this region far-reaching over the past decades. Except for a few bicycles, corrugated iron roofs, tools and toys, their life consist of things they made by their hands. They are not separated of Colombians society but even not a part of the fast ticking world in the SUV’s which pass by on the only road in this region. A road on which I cycle. Invariantly patrolled by military. Enclosed in pure nature of the Andes.”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Operating with the Guadalajara Cartel, the Medellin Cartel became strong between 1976-1993. Drug trafficking, money laundering, assassinations, bombing, extortion, bribery, kidnapping, murder, political corruption, arms trafficking, racketeering, terrorism. These were the daily work of the Ochoa Vázquez brothers and the famous Pablo Escobar. If cocaine surpasses coffee as an export it becomes obvious a wild thing. If this happens while guerrillas want to show their presence and steal money for the FARC it becomes a ridiculous problem. The road and rivers between Medellin and Turbo became a hot-spot for drug traffic and related crimes. Hunted by US trained forces and with the help of the Carli Cartel, the high members their hunted and killed and their daily 60 $ million traffic became smaller. Since 5 years the politics got a better control about that region in the north. Guerrillas and drug lords have a harder life to operate there. Beside that, it makes it easier for me to cycle there, too.

 

I stopped this night again on private property. I saw the next mountain range in front and decided I cannot pass today. The next day proved me right. I climbed on 2600m. The landscape was still gorgeous. Those who have almost nothing give everything and I am happy and ashamed at the same time.

 

Quote from my diary:

“I don’t need cheese right now, had breakfast in the early morning. My break is more a mental one after climbing so much with cold legs. An old woman, her hands tell the hard work of her life, comes all the way down the hill to give it to me. A little child holds Panela, hot sugar water with lemon, in her hands and grins at me. All I could say is thanks before she left. The little girl played with my bicycle before her name was shouted which made her leaving. I am happy with the warm Agua Panela in the plastic bag.”

 

After changing my brakes I could fly down to sea level. Fortunately the road allowed me to be fast. Holes are present but my cycling skills are good enough. Skipping Santa Fe, a city with an old tradition, was hard but I wanted to be as close as possible to Medellin. I cycled 20km more until I found a nice village. I arrived in real Colombia. After the mountains and indigenous influences it takes a while to fit in. Villas and resorts appeared and abruptly I was back in normal life.

 

Quote from my diary:

“Just before I could forget that my surrounding are the Andes, the climbing began again. The German Champions League final in soccer and an appointment in Quito, Ecuador gave my a time frame. I slowed down and saw the nature changing again. Less trees but still green all over. There must be a law which forbids nature a centimetre which isn’t green. Even cacti appeared today. I wonder how nature will change if I cycle up to the frontier of Ecuador. After a lot of rain I took a hotel today instead of searching for a camp spot. A nearly 90 years old woman sat down next to me and told me about her bad back. Her husband pushed her 20 years ago. She almost cried by telling me. To make me smile again a woman in a nice dress, high heels and lady case walked by with a goat on a leach."

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Diary quote:

 

“Ahhhh, what a nice night in a clean bed with white sheets. I could listen to my favourite music. The first time since January. I extended the night till 3am. The next morning was a late one. Medellin just 39km away. Easy going. I changed my mind while a immediately starting 19km uphill with 34 degrees Celsius. Reaching a tunnel in pouring rain became a challenge. I was not allowed to pass through. The coldest rain I can remember. I had to wait an hour until a vehicle took me on the other side. There I waited another hour to heat up a bit. I had no time left and started in rain the 16km downhill to the wonderful city Medellin. My body shook. My muscles soared. My teeth clapped. Then fortune said “hallo”. My front brakes are out of function since 3 days because of rain and rust. Fortunately a car stopped my speed before a crazy steep straight downhill. I heard a ‘peng’. The cable jumped out of the holder of my only remaining brakes. My heart stopped while being confronted with the upcoming descent into the city life – without brakes. A side road! But my feet could not move or stop me and the 40kg luggage. At the junction corner were metal poles. In these I fortunately crashed instead going more downhill. Bike and body soar but are almost fine. I am in my Buddha hostel. A hot shower. Chocolate cake and playing with a cute baby. The good and the bad are so close.”

 

I had doubts about going to a hostel. I needed a break but I wanted a nice and quiet place. I found it. Easy going people. I could rest. A deep need. Not just my body soared due to cycling, boats and the accidents. I needed a mentally break, too. After leaving Niseema I rushed through 3 nations and had an intense time while doing it. North America is behind me. One year it took. My bicycle is not in best shape, it barely rides. What now?

 

• Repairing my bike - could repair some parts

• Shave - took the scissors and cut it  

• Wash cloths - done

• Eat good food - well done

• Music - since January I have the option to listen to my music

• Enjoy talks - thanks to a nice un-American hostel I did it

• Enjoy silence - thanks to a nice un-American hostel I did it

 

Remember the guys who hold a lollipop out of the window? We met and I was invited on a trip outside Medellin’s, into the mountains. Jerico is situated on the plateau. It’s the cutest village I saw on my trip! Special are the bags they produce. I thought they are for girls but no, for boys either. I bought a less eye-catching one. On the way back we stopped for a delicious hot chocolate which is served all over Colombia. The owner sat down at our table. 8 hours later we had been drinking two bottles of best rum. He also came up with a tasty meal every hour. We stayed in his villa for the night and the hospitality continued. We left late afternoon the following day.

 

After five days I took my first walk out to see the first time Medellin! Five days it took me. As always I walked. The city council, military and government did a good job in transforming Pablo Escobar’s territory into a better place. Still it’s placed 13th in most murders in the world. I walked. I saw some quaters which are tourist free but in my opinion: crime can happen everywhere. A guy from my hostel got robbed at the main place the same time I walked through the ghettos. I Chinese looking guy, his second day in South America. Laptop etc. got stolen. I hope, that even if I am stupid enough to walk like this in the streets I know when to stop and my look-a-like right now is not that of a vacationer. Furthermore I had nothing with me they could be interested in. Until now I saw the alarming signs. If people show me a crossing thumb at their throat and pointing in the area I am heading to, I have chosen another road to lick my ice-cream. It is not always that obvious. The best way is to talk constantly to people. They will guide you. I write these examples to point two things out. First: even if people always tell you how violent and dangerous Central American and Colombia are, it’s easy to forget these bad things. Especially Colombia is a extremely nice place. If you follow some rules. (Not walking in suburbs like me for instance) Secondly: Don’t look like a fucking douche bag with a Rolex. Yesterday in Silvia I saw two US Americans wearing Hawaii shirts. Karl, my travel friend, ask them about their nationality to find out where they are from, hilarious. Silvia is famous to have a market every Tuesday. The indigenous come together to sell their products. A wonderful market with fruits and vegetables you just can by in Colombia by the way. The indios wear their traditional clothes. All looks spectacularly spiritual. Next second you see the two Hawaii shirts from far away walking on the main place.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Diary Quote:

 

“Well, I left wonderful Medellin to cycle into The Andes again. I doubt I will win the Nobel-Prize for that. I still can not believe how gorgeous Colombia is. Did not imagine this. Yesterday I slept with a great view. Unfortunately it rained, and rained, and rained. My tent gave up and the rest of the night I slept while sitting next to my bags, trying to stay on my waterproof mattress to avoid being more soaked with cold water. The jungle sounded crazy. Next to my tent stayed a horse, the whole night. Ass the rain turned to drizzle i opened my window to see it. Time after time it made a calm nap. I felt asleep in a cold puddle.”

 

I cycled south. Saw the nature changing. The Andes consist of three mountain ranges. I cycled between them in a valley. Three days without climbing. The purity of flatness on a well prepared road. After cycling through the Boulevard de Café it changed to another mono-agriculture, sugar fields. On the left and right wings I was surrounded by them, the mountains, covered in thick white clouds painted a wonderful image. The sun joined in. Every city I stayed in was marvellous. Again, I can’t believe it. Climbing had to start again. The Andes ranges gather before Ecuador. I reached Popayan, the white city on a Sunday and went for a walk in their empty streets. Surrounded by white old colonial houses a deep love to Colombia overcame me. My new cycling gloves show its national flag. If South America continues like that, I am more than happy to bring this cycling until Ushuaia.

 

The climbing is a challenge but in the centre of amazing nature. Mountain ranches and canyons all over. This is a great finish for an astonishing cycling route through Colombia. I am pretty impressed.”