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Some opinions have to be think over from time to time but in the case of crossing a border I guess I found my fundamental one: I dislike the days I have to cross a border. There are no doubt anymore. My first day after the return of Niseema to Mexico, became a tough one. Since I left Guatemala my cycling routine changed dramatically. The new life consisted of cycling and long breaks. Niseema went by bus, waited for me to arrive or we both bused some kilometers together. The biggest impact to my life as a cyclist was the long lasting pauses without using my bike. Especially Nicaragua became a nation full of resting. I cycled from spot to spot and enjoyed my time off. Niseemas vacation is over, She went back to Mexico and after our goodbye in Managua, the capital of Nicaragua, I arrived at the beach of Madera, where my bicycle waited to be used again. As I saw the beautiful beach again, I could not leave. "One night more", I toldf myself. One more fire at the beach before I will continue my cyclist life the next morning. Managua was destroyed by an earthquake. Its appearance is not inviting and apparently life is dangerous. Citizens are talking you out of walking around in the streets, especially in the nights. It felt good to be back at this wonderful beach. The owner of the little camping already left. The camping was almost dismantled and ready to be modernized. In solitude I sat down at the beach, watched the water and listened to the sounds of nature. Decent cycling will began soon.

 

The first 25km the wind hit me from the side but I had to make a 90 degree curve into a strong headwind for the following 30kilometers. I felt really miserable. Wind wheels show me it was not bad luck to catch winds close to the Ometepe lake. Beside this fight I a struggled with fighting approximately an half-million insects. I never expected see so many of them and how much their permanent appearance can drive you crazy, especially if it continues over two hours. The border station of Costa Rica is hyper new. Nobody wanted to check my bags. Good decision, though. My clothes weren’t washed for weeks. My beach life in Nicaragua was really funny. I cared for anything and forgot about the luxury of having fresh clothing while cycling. It was a intense day until then.Everybody told me about a 30$ entrance fee and 20$ fee for something like a visitor pass. I paid nothing. Might be a myth. Unfortunately the officials are rude and not helping at all.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My first impression of Costa Rica: “That is it? That is everybody likes so much?” Until Liberia, the first city which can earn this name in the north of Costa Rica, the fauna and flora is very boring. It changes in the south to a wonderful nation. On the right side of the street occurred some farming. That was all I could experience while my first evening in Costa Rica but at least I saw some green fields and lots of birds. The other side of the road showed up with desert, brown palm trees, quietness. In this part of the nation the nature needs a farmer to look good. The Pan-American Highway became a tough road. Wind and cars aren’t fun at all and I stopped at a restaurant with German flags to find a camping spot. The owner just closed the place and I got a bed on his empty huge roof terrace. The sunrise in the morning was beautiful. He married a "Tica" and lived together with her and her 15 year old child. He always told his stepdaughter to get a German guy and suddenly I arrived. “15 years is a bit young but…” I let the silence be silent and went to bed after he told me how much he enjoyed the moments the girl leaves in the shower.

 

This morning I put on my helmet on for the first time since many and many days. I had a bad feeling about the upcoming and 10km after my start I saw a dead local cyclist on the street, covered with a blanket. I immediately felt the decision to leave Pan-American highway! A quick look on the map and into a travel report of my Swiss friend Pius gave me an alternative route. I turned west in Liberia and rode along the Nicoya peninsula. Again I slept at a very nice place. My Spanish is good enough to talk to the whole family. The only problem is the state of mind and body after a long day on the road. I quit the invitation for supper and tried to sleep, the view was great and the ranch had a lot of beauty to offer. The next morning showed me the fascination of cycling i missed on the last days since I began to be daily on the road again. The power of nature stroked me. A wonderful road without traffic. The morning fog enclosed the hills and fields of this heart melting landscape. A cyclist appeared. A local one. He told me that the ferry leaves in 33min. 30min for 14km! I did not plan to camp another day, the rain season could began pretty soon and I wanted to go ahead fast. In high-speed I spend my next half an hour. I did it! No ferry at the peer. Why? The ferry leaves at 12:30pm. I still had three hours to bring my pulse down, try my sweated cloths and wait for departure. Those misinformation are always a pleasure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Puntarenas came up with an ugly face. I suddenly was back in traffic. Never-ending headwinds as well. The morning on the Nicoya peninsula started so nice, what happened? I fought again against my two enemies; wind and traffic. Without energy left I arrived at the junction to the Interamerican Highway. It’s the road along the coast of the nation which is named of it. I was looking forward to this time. But first I needed to know how far away my destination is. I asked for the distance and was shocked by the answer, I will never be able to arrive and there are not lots of spots to camp. But the person I asked was a funny guy with an open heart. He welcomed me to stay. Coffee, cake, spaghetti, breakfast etc. I was overwhelmed. They had six dogs. One of them with a purple tongue what was really fascinating and beautiful to watch. He reminded me of the beauty of my dog Fuchur in Nicaragua and how she could look like without her sudden death a few weeks ago. Emerson told me about a bridge full of tourists looking down at the river. Dozens of huge crocodiles will wait for me. Very exciting. I appreciate this info because as I crossed the bridge, there were no people on the bridge looking down. No clue of a sight. I doubt that I would have seen them. But I did with the help of his information and what I could be witness of was amazing. The biggest crocodiles I guessed to 5-6meters. A sign point out not to feed the feed them. Apparently people through chicken over the handlebar to see a fight of life-or-death struggle. I remembered the guy who told me about the departure time of the ferry. He should not pass by this moment to see how much I liked his misinformation.

 

Costa Ricas coast is breathtaking. The road winds along deep rainforests. Views and Sounds are breathtaking. Ocean and forest combine a big deal of freedom.

I had the info that the Manuel Antonio National Park is elected to the 12 most beautiful ones. It even had sloths and to see one was my only goal in Costa Rica. Before entering the park it’s necessary to climb a hill. Extremely steep. my lungs. Beautiful hotels all over but i just wanted to arrive. A nice place, if you have a car. The first time a had to go out of the saddle to be able to ride uphill. I stopped at a less steep part to breathe and my bike lifted to the back. The girl at the reception gave me a towel as she saw me arriving. Showering is a duty if somebody through a towel at you and I greatly followed her advice before I was heading for the supermarket. As I entered it was like visiting Disneyland. A real supermarket. Since 6 months the third I discovered! Beer, ice-cream, lemonade full of sugar. I had no money left but I got my wish list checked. Except of going to bed, the hostel life got me. Since a long time I did not spend my time with tourists nor spoke English. I found somebody to talk and to hike for the next day. I enjoy my travel on the bike so much, to be alone, that I forget it could be nice to talk sometimes. Sasha and I were ready to hike this park due to the fact of meeting a sloth. Everything was set up for a long day in the rainforest. 150meters in front of our hostel we saw "Slothi". She became my big love. I guess she liked me as well because she unusually moved a lot what is unusual for the laziest animal on the planet. Mission accomplished! The next five hours we spend on the gorgeous Playa Espadilla. Why hiking if the animals come to you? Lizards, apes and birds, they all came close to us and said "hello".

 

Even if it was a wonderful place to stay, I had my itinerary and left after just one day off. How can I leave without saying good bye to “Slothi”? I could not find her and became very upset about my abilities! She could not have been so far away. While I searched the tree crowns unsuccessfully, Sasha saw her. “Slothi” was hanging in a bush not higher than my knees. Marvelous!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Always smiling. This energy is crazy. It is purify. The next hostel should be the last one for a while. These US American talks without any content are nothing for me after a long day on the bike. The next border was close. Costa Rica is gorgeous but for somebody traveling throughout all Central American nations a bit to expensive.

 

MILESTONES

  • UNWELCOMING NATURE

  • HIGH RISKS AT THE PAN-AMERICAN HIGHWAY

  • NICOYA PENINSULA

  • RACE AGAINST THE TIME

  • NATIONAL PARK MANUEL ANTONIO

  • SLOTH

  • ANTEATER

  • HUMMINGBIRDS

  • TARACOLES CROCODILE BRIDGE

  • BEGIN OF THE RAINY SEASON

  • BEST MANGOS EVER

Taracoles Crocodile Bridge

EXPERIENCES

COSTA RICA

W A N D E R I N G

AXEL MAASS

NICARAGUA TO COSTA RICA

LEAVING THE PANAMERICAN HIGHWAY

BACK ON THE PANAMERICAN HIGHWAY

"Slothi". I am in love with her.

Who could resist?

Taracoles Crocodile Bridge

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